Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 14:51:01 -0900

Author: Steve Anderson

Subject: RE: Hologram Film & Developer

Post:

Reply to: RE: Hologram Film & Developer
I have never had much luck sandwiching film between glass.
Sometimes, when film is sandwiched between plates, there are moire effects, or bad noise from polarization or TIR inside the plates, and
fresnel loss of object light, especially when off-angle.
It works ok for in-line and open aperture, or on-axis transmission.
I recommend making the edges black and using clipboard clips or tape.

If you are shooting 4x5's just go get a filmholder. These hold two.
You can get them where 4x5 camera supplies are sold, about $8.
Works great for transmission (lite entry from object side only).
I then made a wood frame to hold the holder.
You must cut film exactly, if not using 4x5 sheets.

Another technique (may not work with your film) but, I have found the best way to mount big film is to apply old double stick tape to the platen
(or, glass plate in a plate holder). "Work" the glue, by putting a scrap
piece on and tearing it off a few times. I roll my finger to wear it out.

Lightly mount the film to the glue surface, sort of, roll it on very gently with a cardboard tube. Expose, and peel it off, plop in D-19. Hardly ever have film movement.

Amazingly, the glue doesn't come off, or leave residue, on the film.
I use "old" Agfa 8E75 film. Of course, this refers the BACK side
in contact with the sticky glue. It is fast and easy in the dark.
Works with NAH, but i usually rinse the backing off first.

The emulsion side is detectable if you touch your lips to it, it is slightly sticky. The back side feels cold & smooth.
If you have roll film, the emulsion is on the inside of the curve.
more holo links at;

http://www.hmt.com/holography/index.html

s. anderson
lab guy, CSU Sonoma

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